{"id":191,"date":"2014-05-09T10:46:48","date_gmt":"2014-05-09T10:46:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/?p=191"},"modified":"2017-11-15T13:59:35","modified_gmt":"2017-11-15T13:59:35","slug":"balkan-seyahati-notlari","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/?p=191","title":{"rendered":"Balkan Seyahati Notlar\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>KALKANDELEN VE HARABAT\u0130 BABA DERGAHI<\/p>\n<p>Balkan gezimize kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yerden devam ediyoruz.<br \/>\n21 Nisan 2014 Struga\u2019daki otelimizdeki kahvalt\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan saat<br \/>\n08.30\u2019da hareket ediyoruz.Bu g\u00fcn Mavrova ve Gostivar\u2019\u0131 panaromik olarak g\u00f6rd\u00fckten sonra<br \/>\nas\u0131l ziyaret yerimiz olan Kalkandelen\u2019e(Tetovo) gidece\u011fiz.<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Ohrid ve Struga\u2019y\u0131 tatl\u0131 an\u0131larla geride b\u0131rak\u0131p yine yola<br \/>\nkoyuluyoruz. Yolda daha \u00f6nce dikkatimi \u00e7ekmeyen, sadece k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck<br \/>\nu\u00e7aklar\u0131n inebildi\u011fi Ohrid havaalan\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum.<br \/>\n\u015eehri arkada b\u0131rak\u0131p, d\u00fcz ovada da\u011flara do\u011fru ilerlemeye<br \/>\nba\u015fl\u0131yoruz. Kril alfabesini okumay\u0131 bildi\u011fim i\u00e7in tabelalar\u0131 okumada<br \/>\npek zorlanm\u0131yorum. Tabelada Skopje (\u00dcsk\u00fcp) 180 km yaz\u0131yor.<br \/>\nSa\u011fl\u0131 sollu k\u00f6yler dizilmi\u015f. \u00c7ok ilgin\u00e7; k\u00f6ylerin tamam\u0131na<br \/>\nyak\u0131n\u0131nda bizim Anadolu\u2019da g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz manzara var. Her k\u00f6yde<br \/>\nuzun ve ince bir minare g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. G\u00fcney Makedonya k\u00f6ylerinin<br \/>\nneredeyse tamam\u0131na yak\u0131n\u0131 M\u00fcsl\u00fcman n\u00fcfustan olu\u015fuyor.<br \/>\nYine bana ilgin\u00e7 gelen bir \u00f6zellik daha var. Camiler ne kadar<br \/>\nk\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck olursa olsun, yan\u0131nda devasa; neredeyse elli metre y\u00fckseklikte<br \/>\nminareleri var. Bunun sebebini sonradan \u00dcsk\u00fcp\u2019\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcnce daha iyi<br \/>\nanl\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n<p>Makedonya\u2019da, dinler aras\u0131nda ad\u0131 konmam\u0131\u015f gizli bir semboller<br \/>\nsava\u015f\u0131 var. Makedonlar her ne kadar \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck\u00e7\u00fc ve ho\u015fg\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fc rol\u00fc<br \/>\noynasalar da (ba\u015fka \u00e7areleri de yok) asl\u0131nda koyu bir hristiyan<br \/>\ntaassubuna sahipler.<\/p>\n<p>\u00dclkenin i\u00e7inde bulundu\u011fu b\u00fct\u00fcn ekonomik zorluklara kar\u015f\u0131,<br \/>\ncemaati olmayan ama g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc g\u00fczel olan yerlere g\u00f6rkemli kiliseler<br \/>\nin\u015fa ediyorlar.<\/p>\n<p>Hele \u00dcsk\u00fcp tam bir facia . \u00dcsk\u00fcp\u2019\u00fcn \u0130slam \u00f6zelli\u011fini g\u00f6lgelemek i\u00e7in<br \/>\nneler neler yapm\u0131\u015flar. Bu konuyu \u00dcsk\u00fcp k\u0131sm\u0131na geldi\u011fimizde daha<br \/>\ngeni\u015f olarak anlataca\u011f\u0131m.\u0130\u015fte Makedonya M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar\u0131 da, biz de var\u0131z ve buraday\u0131z<br \/>\ndemek i\u00e7in, \u0130slam\u2019\u0131n sembol\u00fc olan minareleri elden geldi\u011fince g\u00f6\u011fe<br \/>\ny\u00fckseltmek i\u00e7in yar\u0131\u015f halindeler.<\/p>\n<p>Nihayet d\u00fcz yol bitiyor ve kavisler \u00e7izerek da\u011flara do\u011fru t\u0131rman\u0131\u015fa<br \/>\nge\u00e7iyoruz. Ormanlar\u0131n bitki \u00f6rt\u00fcs\u00fc aynen Marmara b\u00f6lgesini<br \/>\nand\u0131r\u0131yor. Me\u015fe, g\u00fcrgen,d\u0131\u015f budak,akasya,karaa\u011fa\u00e7 ve \u00e7am gibi a\u011fa\u00e7<br \/>\nt\u00fcrlerini g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum.<\/p>\n<p>T\u0131rman\u0131\u015fa ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz da\u011flar, \u00fcnl\u00fc \u015ear Da\u011flar\u0131 . Makedonya\u2019y\u0131<br \/>\nortas\u0131ndan G\u00fcney ve Kuzey olarak ikiye b\u00f6l\u00fcyor. Aynen bizim<br \/>\nMarmara\u2019daki Samanl\u0131 s\u0131ra da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131 and\u0131r\u0131yor.<br \/>\nOrtalama y\u00fcksekli\u011fin 2500 metre oldu\u011fu s\u00f6yleniyor. En y\u00fcksek<br \/>\ntepesinin ad\u0131 B\u00fcy\u00fck T\u00fcrk Tepesi . Rak\u0131m ise 2750 metre.D\u00f6ne d\u00f6ne<br \/>\nda\u011flar\u0131n zirvesine do\u011fru \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015fa devam ediyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>Ohrid-\u00dcsk\u00fcp aras\u0131 180 kilometrelik yolun neden \u00fc\u00e7 saatten fazla<br \/>\ns\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc bu da\u011flar\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnce anl\u0131yorum. Bir arkada\u015f espri yap\u0131yor.<br \/>\n\u201cErdo\u011fan buraya t\u00fcnel a\u00e7arsa Ohri- \u00dcsk\u00fcp aras\u0131 bir saate d\u00fc\u015fer\u201d<br \/>\ndiyor.<\/p>\n<p>Y\u00fckseldik\u00e7e kar k\u00fcmelerini g\u00f6rmeye ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz. 2300 metre<br \/>\ny\u00fcksekte kendi zirvemizi buluyoruz. Tam zirvede bir dinlenme tesisi<br \/>\nyer al\u0131yor. Burada mola veriyoruz.Otob\u00fcsten inen herkes hasret kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 kar ile kucakla\u015f\u0131yor. Yo\u011fun bir<br \/>\nkartopu m\u00fccadelesi ya\u015fan\u0131yor. Etraf\u0131m\u0131zdaki Makedonya vatanda\u015flar\u0131<br \/>\nbizi \u015fa\u015fk\u0131n g\u00f6zlerle izliyor. Hele bizim gibi bu y\u0131l hi\u00e7 kar g\u00f6rmeyen<br \/>\n\u0130stanbul\u2019lular i\u00e7in iyi bir e\u011flence oluyor.<br \/>\nKaptan\u0131m\u0131z zirve ini\u015finin daha k\u0131sa oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<br \/>\nBulundu\u011fumuz yer \u015ear Da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n Mavrova k\u0131sm\u0131. Ad\u0131na T\u00fcrk\u00fcler<br \/>\nyak\u0131lan Mayada\u011fdaym\u0131\u015f\u0131z.<\/p>\n<p>\u201c Mayada\u011f\u2019dan kalkan kazlar<\/p>\n<p>Al topuklu beyaz k\u0131zlar\u201d<\/p>\n<p>T\u00fcrk\u00fcs\u00fcne ilham veren da\u011f\u0131n zirvesinde olmak g\u00fczel bir duygu .<br \/>\nHemen a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da t\u00fcrk\u00fcye nakarat olan Vardar ovas\u0131 ba\u015fl\u0131yor.<br \/>\nBalkan t\u00fcrk\u00fclerinin b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00fcstad\u0131 Arif \u015eent\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn kulaklar\u0131n\u0131<br \/>\n\u00e7\u0131nlat\u0131yoruz.1978-79-80 y\u0131llar\u0131nda Zeytinburnu \u0130hsan Mermerci<br \/>\nLisesi\u2019nde Edebiyat \u00d6\u011fretmeni olarak g\u00f6rev yaparken, t\u0131ra\u015f<br \/>\noldu\u011fumuz berberimiz \u015eent\u00fcrk sayesinde Balkan t\u00fcrk\u00fclerini sevdi\u011fimi<br \/>\nanlat\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n<p>Ay\u0131pt\u0131r s\u00f6ylemesi; arkada\u015flar\u0131m Arif \u015eent\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn taklidini olduk\u00e7a<br \/>\niyi yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131 s\u00f6ylerler. Otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcz Mavrova\u2019ya yakla\u015f\u0131rken elime<br \/>\nmikrofon veriyorlar. Geri \u00e7evirmek olmaz.<\/p>\n<p>Mavrova\u2019dan ald\u0131m s\u00fcmb\u00fcl bir okka nohut<br \/>\nAl beni bre sar more s\u00fcmb\u00fcl koynunda uyut<br \/>\nGel yan\u0131ma gir can\u0131ma ayletme(a\u011flatma) beni<br \/>\nYedi da sene mapusta yatcem alacam seni<\/p>\n<p>Arif \u015eent\u00fcrk taklidiyle s\u00f6yledi\u011fim bu t\u00fcrk\u00fc b\u00fcy\u00fck ilgi topluyor.<br \/>\nHatta kameraya alanlar\u0131 da g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum.<br \/>\nAd\u0131na t\u00fcrk\u00fcler yak\u0131lan Mavrova, asl\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir kasaba, hatta<br \/>\nkasaba de\u011fil iki \u00fc\u00e7 bin n\u00fcfuslu \u015firin bir k\u00f6y. Buras\u0131 Gostivar\u2019a ba\u011fl\u0131 bir<br \/>\nmilli park alan\u0131ym\u0131\u015f. Ne yaz\u0131k ki burada durma ve gezmeye zaman\u0131m\u0131z<br \/>\nyok. Bir ba\u015fka zaman mutlaka Mavrova\u2019y\u0131 \u00f6zel olarak g\u00f6rmek<br \/>\nistedi\u011fimi s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorum.<\/p>\n<p>Otob\u00fcs d\u00fcze indi; Vardar ovas\u0131nda ilerlemeye ba\u015fl\u0131yoruz. Biraz<br \/>\nsonra Gostivar g\u00f6r\u00fcnd\u00fc. Yolun sa\u011f\u0131nda kalan Gostivar\u2019\u0131 seyrederek<br \/>\nyola devam ediyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>2002 say\u0131mlar\u0131na g\u00f6re 80 bin n\u00fcfusa sahip . N\u00fcfusunun y\u00fczde<br \/>\nsekseni de M\u00fcsl\u00fcman. Yakla\u015f\u0131k olarak on bin civar\u0131nda da T\u00fcrk<br \/>\nya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 \u00f6\u011freniyoruz. \u00d6\u011flen namaz\u0131n\u0131 Kalkandelen\u2019de (Tetovo) k\u0131lmay\u0131 hedefliyoruz.<br \/>\n\u0130kindi hedefimiz ise \u00dcsk\u00fcp \u0130sa Bey Camii. Burada tatil olmas\u0131na<br \/>\nra\u011fmen Balkan \u00dcniversitesi Rekt\u00f6r\u00fc \u015einasi G\u00fcnd\u00fcz Hoca bizi<br \/>\nbekliyor.<\/p>\n<p>Nihayet Kalkandelen\u2019e var\u0131yoruz. Yol tabelalar\u0131na bak\u0131nca<br \/>\nKalkandelen\u2019in \u00dcsk\u00fcp\u2019e 20 ya da 25 kilometre mesafede<br \/>\nbulundu\u011funu fark ediyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>Kalkandelen \u0130smi bende g\u00fczel \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015f\u0131mlar uyand\u0131r\u0131yor. 1980 sonras\u0131<br \/>\n1990\u2019l\u0131 y\u0131llar\u0131n sonlar\u0131na kadar birlikte politika yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z de\u011ferli<br \/>\na\u011fabeyim eski Kocaeli Milletvekili \u0130smail Kalkandelen ve o\u011flu Milli<br \/>\nfutbol hakemimiz Mustafa Kalkandelen\u2019e buradan selam yolluyorum.<br \/>\nKalkandelen yakla\u015f\u0131k 90 bin civar\u0131ndaki n\u00fcfusuyla Makedonya\u2019n\u0131n<br \/>\nb\u00fcy\u00fck \u015fehirleri aras\u0131nda yer al\u0131yor. Bu \u015fehirdeki M\u00fcsl\u00fcman n\u00fcfus<br \/>\ny\u00fczde seksenden fazla . Arnavut \u00e7o\u011funluk i\u00e7inde T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fan<br \/>\nsay\u0131s\u0131 da olduk\u00e7a fazla .<\/p>\n<p>Otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc do\u011fruca Harabati Baba Dergah\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcne<br \/>\n\u00e7ekiyoruz. Buras\u0131 Balkanlar\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck Bekta\u015fi Tekkesi . Hatta<br \/>\nkaplad\u0131\u011f\u0131 alan itibariyle bizim Nev\u015fehir\u2019deki Hac\u0131bekta\u015f Dergah\u0131ndan<br \/>\ndaha b\u00fcy\u00fck oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yleyebilirim.<\/p>\n<p>Bu Tekke\u2019nin kurulu\u015fu 1530\u2019lu y\u0131llara Kanuni devrine dayan\u0131yor.<br \/>\nTekke kurucusu olarak Sersem Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n ad\u0131 zikrediliyor. Bilgi<br \/>\nveren rehberimiz Sedat Bey, Sersem Ali Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n Kanuni\u2019nin kay\u0131n<br \/>\nbiraderi, Mahi Devran Sultan\u2019\u0131n da a\u011fabeyi oldu\u011funu s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n<p>Biz ayn\u0131 bilgiyi Ohrid\u2019deki Halveti Dergah\u0131nda da alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Burada<br \/>\nMahi Devran Sultan\u2019\u0131n a\u011fabeyinin ad\u0131 Mustafa Pa\u015fa olarak verilmi\u015fti.<br \/>\nYine Ohrid\u2019de oldu\u011fu gibi, daha sonralar\u0131 yine Malatya\u2019dan gelen<br \/>\nHarabati Baba\u2019n\u0131n burada Bekta\u015fili\u011fi kurumsalla\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz.<br \/>\nHer iki durumda da ad\u0131 ne olursa olsun Mahi Devran Sultan\u0131n<br \/>\na\u011fabeyi fig\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn Balkan co\u011frafyas\u0131 dergahlar\u0131nda \u00f6nemli bir unsur<br \/>\nolarak \u00f6ne \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yleyebiliriz.<\/p>\n<p>Bu dergah konumu itibariyle \u00e7ok g\u00fczel bir yerde bulunuyor. \u0130ki<br \/>\nmetreyi a\u015fan kal\u0131n avlu duvarlar\u0131 halen yerli yerinde duruyor. \u0130ki<br \/>\nayr\u0131 giri\u015fi olan dergah\u0131n i\u00e7inde bir \u00e7ok yap\u0131 bulunuyor. Tekke, a\u015fevi,<br \/>\nmisafirhane, camii, kiler ve daha bir\u00e7ok yap\u0131 harap vaziyette de olsa<br \/>\nayakta duruyor.<\/p>\n<p>Bu dergah y\u0131llarca ad\u0131 gibi harap durumda b\u0131rak\u0131lm\u0131\u015f, daha sonra<br \/>\ni\u00e7kili bir lokantaya d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f ve i\u015fletmecilere kiralanm\u0131\u015f.<br \/>\n2001 y\u0131l\u0131nda ya\u015fanan k\u0131sa s\u00fcreli Makedonya i\u00e7 sava\u015f\u0131 s\u0131ras\u0131nda;<br \/>\nKalkandelen Arnavut Kurtulu\u015f Ordusu ad\u0131yla an\u0131lan (U\u00c7K)<br \/>\nmilislerinin karargah\u0131 olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n<p>B\u00f6lgede hakimiyet kuran Arnavut U\u00c7K milisleri, dergah\u0131 ele<br \/>\nge\u00e7irmi\u015f, i\u00e7indeki i\u015fletmeciyi kap\u0131 d\u0131\u015far\u0131 ederek, depolarda bulunan<br \/>\nbinlerce i\u00e7ki \u015fi\u015fesini dergah\u0131n d\u0131\u015f\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kararak topluca imha etmi\u015ftir.<br \/>\nSava\u015f s\u0131ras\u0131nda dergah U\u00c7K askerlerinin karargah\u0131 olarak vazife<br \/>\ng\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcr.<\/p>\n<p>2001 Kas\u0131m\u0131nda taraflar aras\u0131nda imzalanan Ohrid \u00e7er\u00e7eve<br \/>\nanla\u015fmas\u0131 ile i\u00e7 sava\u015f sona ermi\u015f, dergah\u0131n stat\u00fcs\u00fc ortada kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<br \/>\nBu g\u00fcn Makedonya Diyanet i\u015fleri Ba\u015fkanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile Bekta\u015fi\u2019ler<br \/>\naras\u0131nda bir sahiplenme kavgas\u0131 ya\u015fanmaktad\u0131r. Dergah meyhane<br \/>\nolarak i\u015fletilirken ortal\u0131kta g\u00f6r\u00fcnmeyen ve hi\u00e7bir giri\u015fimi olmayan<br \/>\nBekta\u015fi cemaati (asl\u0131nda yok gibi) \u015fu anda amans\u0131z bir kavga<br \/>\ni\u00e7indedir.<\/p>\n<p>Dergah avlusu adeta parsellenmi\u015f durumdad\u0131r. Misafirhane ile<br \/>\nkabirlerin bulundu\u011fu k\u0131s\u0131mda i\u00e7 avluda bulunan binada Bekta\u015fi<br \/>\ncemaatinin temsilcisi bulunuyor. Kap\u0131lar\u0131nda da Amerikan bayra\u011f\u0131<br \/>\nas\u0131l\u0131. Di\u011fer binalarda ise Arnavut bayraklar\u0131 as\u0131l\u0131.<\/p>\n<p>Bunun ne anlama geldi\u011fini rehberimiz Sedat Bey\u2019e soruyoruz.\u201d Her<br \/>\nhalde bizim arkam\u0131zda Amerika var demek istiyorlar\u201d diyor.<br \/>\nDergahta bulunan Bekta\u015fi Dede\u2019sini ziyarete gidiyoruz. Kalabal\u0131k<br \/>\nbir gurubun geldi\u011fini g\u00f6ren Dede, kap\u0131ya \u00e7\u0131karak bizi kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor.<br \/>\n\u0130ki metreye yak\u0131n boyu ve uzun beyaz sakallar\u0131 ile olduk\u00e7a heybetli<br \/>\ng\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. Sa\u011f elimi g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcme koyarak dergah adab\u0131yla \u201cSelam\u00fcn<br \/>\naleyk\u00fcm dedem\u201d diyorum.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cEsta\u011ffurullah dedelik kim biz kim, bu dergaha hizmet etmeye<br \/>\n\u00e7al\u0131\u015fan dervi\u015f aday\u0131y\u0131z\u201d diyor.<br \/>\nDaha sonraki Dede hitaplar\u0131m\u0131za tepki g\u00f6stermiyor. Ad\u0131n\u0131n Emin<br \/>\nTahir oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyoruz. Gostivar\u2019l\u0131 bir Arnavut. T\u00fcrk\u00e7esi olduk\u00e7a<br \/>\niyi ve ak\u0131c\u0131 . Bizi a\u011f\u0131rlad\u0131\u011f\u0131 salonun duvarlar\u0131 boydan boya resimlerle<br \/>\ndolu. Bu resimlerde kimler yok ki\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Abdullah G\u00fcl, Tayyip Erdo\u011fan, Deniz Baykal, Davuto\u011flu bir \u00e7ok<br \/>\nbakan ve milletvekili. ABD D\u0131\u015fi\u015fleri Bakan\u0131, AB parlamentosunun<br \/>\nde\u011fi\u015fik birimlerinin yetkilileri; kimi ararsan\u0131z orada . Dede iyi sat\u0131\u015f<br \/>\nyap\u0131yor do\u011frusu<\/p>\n<p>Yapt\u0131klar\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar hakk\u0131nda bilgi veriyor. Ankara\u2019da yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131<br \/>\ntemaslar\u0131 anlat\u0131yor. En k\u0131sa zamanda buras\u0131n\u0131n T\u0130KA taraf\u0131ndan<br \/>\nonar\u0131laca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 umut etti\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n<p>Nezaketimiz gere\u011fi kap\u0131ya ast\u0131\u011f\u0131 ABD bayra\u011f\u0131 sebebiyle, neden<br \/>\nrestorasyon finansman\u0131n\u0131n ABD\u2019den talep edilmedi\u011fini sormuyoruz.<br \/>\nTekke ger\u00e7ekten de \u00e7ok harap bir durumda. Hele kabirlerin<br \/>\ndurumu i\u00e7ler ac\u0131s\u0131. Bu tekkenin bir an \u00f6nce restorasyona girmesi i\u00e7in<br \/>\n\u00e7aba sarf edilmelidir.<\/p>\n<p>Bu dergah ile ilgili \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcms\u00fczl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn sebeplerinden biri de;<br \/>\nT\u00fcrkiye\u2019deki baz\u0131 Alevi ve Bekta\u015fi dernekleridir. T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de oldu\u011fu<br \/>\ngibi orada da Makedonya Diyanet \u0130\u015fleri Ba\u015fkanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile bir kavga<br \/>\ni\u00e7indedirler.<\/p>\n<p>Makedonya\u2019da olmayan bir Bekta\u015fi cemaati yaratma \u00e7abalar\u0131<br \/>\ny\u00fcz\u00fcnden Dergah harap olmaktad\u0131r. Buradaki az say\u0131da da olsa<br \/>\nBekta\u015filerin diyanet \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131 alt\u0131nda \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 ile halledilebilecek bir<br \/>\nmesele, Avrupa insan Haklar\u0131 Mahkemesine ta\u015f\u0131narak \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fcms\u00fczl\u00fc\u011fe<br \/>\nmahkum edilmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n<p>Bu dergah\u0131 meyhane olmaktan kurtaran U\u00c7K milisleri bu g\u00fcn<br \/>\nresmi olarak yok olsalar bile, fiili olarak buraya sahip \u00e7\u0131kmaktad\u0131rlar.<br \/>\nKalkandelen rehberimiz Sedat Bey\u2019e e\u015flik eden eski U\u00c7K<br \/>\nkomutanlar\u0131ndan Cemali bey de gurubumuzun yak\u0131n ilgisine<br \/>\nmazhar oluyor. Kuca\u011f\u0131ndaki sevimli k\u0131z\u0131 ile birlikte resim \u00e7ektirmek<br \/>\nisteyenlerle hat\u0131ra foto\u011fraf\u0131 \u00e7ektiriyor.<\/p>\n<p>Harabati Baba dergah\u0131n\u0131n kuzey taraf\u0131nda, d\u0131\u015f duvara biti\u015fik bir<br \/>\nU\u00c7K \u015fehitli\u011fi bulunuyor. 2001 y\u0131l\u0131nda ya\u015fanan i\u00e7 \u00e7at\u0131\u015fmalarda \u015fehit<br \/>\nd\u00fc\u015fen Arnavut milisler burada g\u00f6m\u00fcl\u00fc. \u015eehitlik olduk\u00e7a bak\u0131ml\u0131 .<br \/>\nBurada da \u015fehitler i\u00e7in Fatiha okuyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>Harabati Baba Dergah\u0131 ziyareti biterken ya\u011fmur ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Anla\u015f\u0131lan<br \/>\nya\u011fmur Kalkandelen ziyaretimizi aksatacak. Otob\u00fcse binip ya\u011fmur<br \/>\nalt\u0131nda \u00fcnl\u00fc Alaca Camiine gidiyoruz. Ya\u011fmur olduk\u00e7a \u015fiddetli . Buna<br \/>\nra\u011fmen \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor ve ziyarete giriyoruz.<br \/>\nCamii ger\u00e7ekten \u00e7ok ilgin\u00e7 ve renkli. \u0130\u00e7 ve d\u0131\u015f s\u00fcslemeleri<br \/>\nrengarenk. Rehberimiz i\u00e7 s\u00fcslemeler s\u0131ras\u0131nda boyaya kurban kan\u0131<br \/>\nda kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. Camii 1438 y\u0131l\u0131nda iki k\u0131z karde\u015f taraf\u0131ndan<br \/>\nyapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.\u0130\u00e7 s\u00fcslemelerinde insan fig\u00fcr\u00fc olmamas\u0131na kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k, a\u00e7\u0131k\u00e7a a\u011fa\u00e7,<br \/>\n\u00e7i\u00e7ek ve bina resimlerinin g\u00f6zle g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcr \u015fekilde yer almas\u0131 bu camii<br \/>\nilgin\u00e7 k\u0131lan \u00f6zelliklerden biri olarak nitelenebilir.<br \/>\nCaminin bah\u00e7esinde bu camiyi yapt\u0131ran Hur\u015fide ve Mensure<br \/>\nkarde\u015flerin t\u00fcrbeleri yer al\u0131yor.<br \/>\nCaminin hemen elli metre yan\u0131nda bir medresede halen haf\u0131zl\u0131k<br \/>\ne\u011fitimi devam ediyor. \u015eu anda da y\u00fcz civar\u0131nda \u00f6\u011frencinin haf\u0131zl\u0131k<br \/>\ntaliminde bulundu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyoruz. Ya\u011fmur b\u00fct\u00fcn h\u0131z\u0131 ile devam ediyor. Niyetimiz Kalkandelen\u2019i<br \/>\netrafl\u0131ca gezmek ve \u015fehrin ortas\u0131ndan ge\u00e7en Pena Nehri\u2019nin<br \/>\nk\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki \u00e7ay bah\u00e7elerinde T\u00fcrk usul\u00fc kahve ve \u00e7ay i\u00e7mekti.<br \/>\nBu iste\u011fimizi bu durumda bir ba\u015fka bahara ertelemek durumunda<br \/>\nkal\u0131yoruz. \u00c7aresiz \u00dcsk\u00fcp\u2019e do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kaca\u011f\u0131z. Asl\u0131nda orada da<br \/>\nya\u011fmur ya\u011f\u0131yor ama buras\u0131 kadar de\u011filmi\u015f.<br \/>\nKalkandelen\u2019e tam anlam\u0131yla doymadan \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011fimizi yemek<br \/>\n\u00fczere \u015fehir d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda Ko\u00e7 Holding kurulu\u015fu olan Ram Store ma\u011fazas\u0131n\u0131n<br \/>\ni\u00e7inde bulunan bir restorana gidiyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>Yemekten sonra \u00dcsk\u00fcp\u2019e hareket edece\u011fiz.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/167-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-192\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/167-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/167.jpg 465w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/262-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-193\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/262-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/262.jpg 465w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/346-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-194\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/346-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/346.jpg 465w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/428-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-195\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/428-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/428.jpg 465w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/517-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-196\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/517-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/517.jpg 465w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/76-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-197\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/76-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/76.jpg 465w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/84-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-198\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/84-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/84.jpg 465w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/94-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/94-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/94.jpg 465w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>KALKANDELEN VE HARABAT\u0130 BABA DERGAHI Balkan gezimize kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z yerden devam ediyoruz. 21 Nisan 2014 Struga\u2019daki otelimizdeki kahvalt\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan saat 08.30\u2019da hareket ediyoruz.Bu g\u00fcn Mavrova ve Gostivar\u2019\u0131 panaromik olarak g\u00f6rd\u00fckten sonra as\u0131l ziyaret yerimiz olan Kalkandelen\u2019e(Tetovo) gidece\u011fiz.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/191"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=191"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/191\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":201,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/191\/revisions\/201"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=191"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=191"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=191"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}