{"id":524,"date":"2014-05-07T21:22:08","date_gmt":"2014-05-07T21:22:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/?p=524"},"modified":"2017-11-17T21:30:14","modified_gmt":"2017-11-17T21:30:14","slug":"ohrid-ve-strudadaki-halveti-dergahlari","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/?p=524","title":{"rendered":"Ohrid ve \u015etruda&#8217;daki Halveti Dergahlar\u0131"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Yeme\u011fin ard\u0131ndan \u00fc\u00e7 saat serbest zaman\u0131m\u0131z var. Merkez n\u00fcfusu 45 ya da 50 bin civar\u0131nda olan Ohrid, ger\u00e7ekten de b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici bir \u00f6zelli\u011fe sahip .<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ne tarafa bakarsan\u0131z bak\u0131n adeta tarih f\u0131\u015fk\u0131r\u0131yor. Klasik Osmanl\u0131 mimarisinin izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan yap\u0131lardan olu\u015fan Ohrid \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131 \u00e7ok canl\u0131 . Kafilemizdeki bayanlar d\u00fckkanlara dal\u0131p Ohrid incileriyle s\u00fcsl\u00fc vitrinleri incelerken; biz de avc\u0131 misali rastgele diyerek \u015fehri tema\u015faya \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yoruz.<\/strong><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>\u00c7ar\u015f\u0131da ilerlerken esnaf\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131n T\u00fcrk ya da Arnavut<\/p>\n<p>M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlardan oldu\u011funu fark ediyoruz. \u00d6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz<\/p>\n<p>bir berber d\u00fckkan\u0131n\u0131n sahibi bizi \u00e7aya davet ediyor. Ayak\u00fcst\u00fc<\/p>\n<p>sohbet ediyoruz. Bursa\u2019da bir\u00e7ok akrabas\u0131 varm\u0131\u015f. Kendisi de s\u0131k s\u0131k<\/p>\n<p>T\u00fcrkiye\u2019ye geliyormu\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>\u015eehrin yamac\u0131nda bulunan bir kiliseden ayin sesleri gelmeye<\/p>\n<p>devam ediyor. Saatlerdir durmadan ayin yapan ve ilahiler okuyan bu<\/p>\n<p>insanlar\u0131n bize g\u00f6re bat\u0131l olsalar bile, iman\u0131n\u0131 takdir ediyorum.<\/p>\n<p>Uyanan merak\u0131m\u0131 gidermek i\u00e7in kilisedeki ayini g\u00f6rmeye<\/p>\n<p>gidiyorum. Ohrid yama\u00e7lar\u0131na kurulmu\u015f orta halli kiliseye<\/p>\n<p>yakla\u015f\u0131yorum. Etrafta kimseler yok, \u00e7ok tenha . Herhalde cemaat<\/p>\n<p>i\u00e7erdedir diyorum.<\/p>\n<p>\u00c7ekingen ad\u0131mlarla kilisenin d\u0131\u015f avlusuna ayak bas\u0131yorum. Hala<\/p>\n<p>kar\u015f\u0131ma \u00e7\u0131kan hi\u00e7 kimse yok. Sesi d\u0131\u015far\u0131 verilen hoparl\u00f6rden y\u00fckselen<\/p>\n<p>ayin sesi ile birlikte a\u00e7\u0131k olan kilisenin i\u00e7ine giriyorum.<\/p>\n<p><strong>\u0130\u00e7eri girince hayretten a\u011fz\u0131m a\u00e7\u0131k vaziyette manzaraya<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>bak\u0131yorum. \u0130\u00e7eride ya\u015flar\u0131 seksen civar\u0131nda sadece \u00fc\u00e7 tane kad\u0131n<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>var. Papaz bile ortada yok. Ayin kasetini takm\u0131\u015flar ortal\u0131\u011f\u0131 velveleye<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>veriyorlar.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Kiliseden a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 inerken Makedonya T\u00fcrk toplumu taraf\u0131ndan<\/p>\n<p>kurulan TDP\u2019nin b\u00fcrosu ile kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yorum. Nisan ay\u0131n\u0131n sonunda<\/p>\n<p>se\u00e7imler varm\u0131\u015f onun i\u00e7in kampanya y\u00fcr\u00fctt\u00fcklerini anlat\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n<p>Devlet ba\u015fkanl\u0131\u011f\u0131 se\u00e7imlerinde Georgi \u0130vanov\u2019u destekliyorlarm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>Koalisyon h\u00fck\u00fcmetinde bir bakanlar\u0131 varm\u0131\u015f. Ayr\u0131ca baz\u0131 b\u00fcrokratik<\/p>\n<p>makamlar da T\u00fcrklerin elindeymi\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar olarak ittifak yapamad\u0131klar\u0131 i\u00e7in ele\u015ftirilerimi<\/p>\n<p>y\u00f6neltiyorum, hakl\u0131s\u0131n diyorlar.<\/p>\n<p>Tekrar \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131ya iniyorum. Daha \u00f6nce nam\u0131n\u0131 duydu\u011fun Cengiz\u2019in<\/p>\n<p>\u00e7ay oca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ar\u0131yorum. Hemen tarif ediyorlar. \u00c7ay oca\u011f\u0131na vard\u0131\u011f\u0131mda<\/p>\n<p>bizim ekipten bir\u00e7o\u011funun orada konu\u015flanm\u0131\u015f oldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum.<\/p>\n<p>Cengiz Ohrid\u2019li bir T\u00fcrk, \u00e7ay oca\u011f\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7i T\u00fcrkiye resimleri ve bir\u00e7ok<\/p>\n<p>\u00f6zl\u00fc s\u00f6zlerle dolu. Burada sanki T\u00fcrkiye\u2019deymi\u015f gibi koyu bir sohbete<\/p>\n<p>dal\u0131yoruz. Aram\u0131za Makedonya\u2019l\u0131 T\u00fcrkler de kat\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Buralarda Tayyip Erdo\u011fan bir fenomen halinde. Erdo\u011fan<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>hakk\u0131nda k\u00f6t\u00fc bir s\u00f6z s\u00f6ylemeye bile cesaret edemezsiniz. Ondan<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>bahsederken sanki kendi liderleri gibi \u201cba\u015fbakan\u0131m\u0131z\u201d tabirini<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>kullan\u0131yorlar.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Sohbete doyum olmaz diyerek birka\u00e7 arkada\u015fla birlikte Ohrid<\/p>\n<p>kalesine \u00e7\u0131kmaya karar veriyoruz. Biraz yoku\u015f t\u0131rmanaca\u011f\u0131z ama yine<\/p>\n<p>da yayan \u00e7\u0131kmay\u0131 tercih ediyoruz. Yirmi dakikal\u0131k bir t\u0131rman\u0131\u015ftan sonra<\/p>\n<p>kaleye var\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ohrid kalesi benim g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm ya\u015fayan kalelerin en g\u00fczellerinden<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>biri . Kale, varl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 koruman\u0131n yan\u0131 s\u0131ra halen i\u00e7inde bulunan<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>yerle\u015fimle birlikte tarihin b\u00fct\u00fcn ihti\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 yans\u0131t\u0131yor.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Surlar\u0131n i\u00e7inde bulunan evlerde, tahmini olarak birka\u00e7 bin ki\u015fi<\/p>\n<p>ya\u015f\u0131yor. Tarihi sokaklar ve yap\u0131lar ile kale i\u00e7i tam bir sit alan\u0131. Burada<\/p>\n<p>restore edilmesi gereken o kadar \u00e7ok yap\u0131 var ki. Makedonya<\/p>\n<p>devletinin bunu yapabilmesi \u00e7ok zor .<\/p>\n<p>Kaleden Ohrid\u2019i seyretmek de g\u00fczel. Kalenin tarihi, Osmanl\u0131 \u00f6ncesi<\/p>\n<p>Roma d\u00f6nemlerine kadar uzan\u0131yor. Osmanl\u0131lar da kaleyi restore<\/p>\n<p>ederek bu g\u00fcne ula\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flam\u0131\u015flar.<\/p>\n<p>Kaleden ini\u015fe ge\u00e7iyoruz. \u0130kindi namaz\u0131n\u0131 Halveti Dergah\u0131 ile i\u00e7<\/p>\n<p>i\u00e7e olan Zeynel Abidin Pa\u015fa Camiinde k\u0131laca\u011f\u0131z. \u00c7evre d\u00fczenlemesi<\/p>\n<p>T\u0130KA taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lan Pir Hayati Baba dergah\u0131na ikindi namaz\u0131na<\/p>\n<p>giriyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>Dergah, Zeynel Abidin Pa\u015fa Camiinin avlusunda camiye biti\u015fik<\/p>\n<p>olarak in\u015fa edilmi\u015f. Malatya\u2019dan balkanlara gelen Pir Muhammed<\/p>\n<p>Hayati Hazretleri, Zeynel Abidin Pa\u015fa\u2019n\u0131n iltifatlar\u0131na mazhar olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Dergah\u0131n\u0131 da camiye biti\u015fik olarak in\u015fa etmi\u015f.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Biz erkekler namaz\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 cami k\u0131sm\u0131nda k\u0131larken, bayanlar camiden<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>i\u00e7 kap\u0131yla ge\u00e7ilen dergah k\u0131sm\u0131nda namazlar\u0131n\u0131 k\u0131ld\u0131lar. Namaz<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>bitiminde tespih ve duan\u0131n ard\u0131ndan kendimizi bir anda zikir i\u00e7inde<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>bulduk.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Halveti dergahlar\u0131, bug\u00fcn de her namaz\u0131n ard\u0131ndan k\u0131sa be\u015f<\/p>\n<p>dakikal\u0131k zikirlerini ihmal etmeden s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyorlar. Hu..huu; Allah ve La<\/p>\n<p>\u0130lahe \u0130llallah sedalar\u0131 ile biz de Ohrili M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlara i\u015ftirak ettik.<\/p>\n<p>Namaz bitince yerli cemaat ile birlikte sa\u011f tarafa minare y\u00f6n\u00fcne<\/p>\n<p>do\u011fru d\u00f6nd\u00fck. M\u00fcezzinin el Fatiha diye seslenmesi \u00fczerine<\/p>\n<p>Fatihalar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 okuyup namaz\u0131 bitirmi\u015f olduk.<\/p>\n<p>Son yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z hareket benim \u00e7ok dikkatimi \u00e7ekmi\u015fti. Hemen s\u0131ca\u011f\u0131<\/p>\n<p>s\u0131ca\u011f\u0131na \u0130mama sordum. \u0130mam T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den diyanet g\u00f6revlisi olarak<\/p>\n<p>orada g\u00f6rev yap\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Namaz bitip de aya\u011fa kalk\u0131p sa\u011f\u0131m\u0131za d\u00f6n\u00fcp Fatiha okumam\u0131z\u0131n<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>sebebi, bir vasiyete dayan\u0131yormu\u015f. Caminin banisi Zeynel<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Abidin Pa\u015fa buray\u0131 Halveti dergah\u0131na verirken; \u00f6ld\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnde<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>buraya g\u00f6m\u00fclmesini ve her namazdan sonra da kendisine Fatiha<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>okunmas\u0131n\u0131 vasiyet etmi\u015f. \u0130\u015fte bu dergahta y\u00fcz y\u0131llard\u0131r Zeynel<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Abidin Pa\u015fa\u2019ya Fatiha okunuyor.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Cami imam\u0131, dergah\u0131n bah\u00e7esinde bize bilgi verirken bir ayr\u0131nt\u0131<\/p>\n<p>dikkatimi \u00e7ekti. Bu ayr\u0131nt\u0131y\u0131 da tarihe not d\u00fc\u015fmek ve ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131lara<\/p>\n<p>y\u00f6n vermek i\u00e7in aktar\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Zeynel Abidin pa\u015fa Camii imam\u0131, Makedonya\u2019da ula\u015fabildi\u011fi<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>ar\u015fiv kay\u0131tlar\u0131nda, burada Halvetili\u011fin temelinin Kanunu Sultan<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>S\u00fcleyman\u2019\u0131n e\u015fi Mahi Devran Sultan\u2019\u0131n erkek karde\u015fi Mustafa Pa\u015fa<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>taraf\u0131ndan at\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledi.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Pir Muhammed Mehmet Hayati hazretleri 1720 y\u0131l\u0131nda Ohrid\u2019e<\/p>\n<p>geldi\u011finde, burada da\u011f\u0131lm\u0131\u015f iki y\u00fcz y\u0131ll\u0131k bir halveti gelene\u011fi vard\u0131. Pir<\/p>\n<p>hayati Hazretleri da\u011f\u0131lan dergah\u0131 yeniden toparlayarak Balkanlarda<\/p>\n<p>Halvetili\u011fin kal\u0131c\u0131 izler b\u0131rakmas\u0131n\u0131 sa\u011flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n<p>Balkanlarda ye\u015feren Halveti tarikati Hayatiye kolunun merkezi<\/p>\n<p>(Asitane) Ohri\u2019dir. Bu dergaha ba\u011fl\u0131 olarak Struga, K\u0131rcova ve \u0130stip<\/p>\n<p>halveti dergahlar\u0131 da varl\u0131klar\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcrmektedir.<\/p>\n<p>Ohrid gezisini bitirip Struga\u2019daki otelimize d\u00f6nece\u011fiz. Ak\u015fam<\/p>\n<p>yeme\u011fine kadar iki saatlik bir zaman var.<\/p>\n<p>Strugan\u0131n i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7en Drim nehri boyunca y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yorum.<\/p>\n<p>Nehrin farkl\u0131 noktalar\u0131nda iki yakay\u0131 birbirine ba\u011flayan k\u00f6pr\u00fcler<\/p>\n<p>var. Beton dubalarla trafi\u011fe kapal\u0131, at\u0131l durumda bulunan bir k\u00f6pr\u00fc<\/p>\n<p>g\u00f6z\u00fcme \u00e7arp\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p>Tahmin etti\u011fim gibi bu k\u00f6pr\u00fc 1961 y\u0131l\u0131ndan bu yana <strong>\u201cStruga \u015eiir<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Ak\u015famlar\u0131\u201d<\/strong> ad\u0131yla \u015fairler bulu\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131n yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 k\u00f6pr\u00fc. K\u00f6pr\u00fcn\u00fcn<\/p>\n<p>\u00fczerinden kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7iyorum.<\/p>\n<p>Burada evlerin aras\u0131nda bir minare g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum. O tarafa do\u011fru<\/p>\n<p>y\u00fcr\u00fcyorum. Olduk\u00e7a harap g\u00f6r\u00fcnen caminin avlusuna girip resim<\/p>\n<p>\u00e7ekmeye ba\u015fl\u0131yorum. O s\u0131rada biti\u015fikte bulunan bir t\u00fcrbe dikkatimi<\/p>\n<p>\u00e7ekiyor. Tam oraya vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m s\u0131rada i\u00e7eriden birinin \u00e7\u0131karak anahtarla<\/p>\n<p>kap\u0131y\u0131 kilitledi\u011fini g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Asl\u0131nda fark\u0131nda olmadan Pir Hayati hazretlerinin Struga\u2019daki<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>halifesi Pir Hasan Baba\u2019n\u0131n t\u00fcrbesine gelmi\u015fim. T\u00fcrbedar T\u00fcrk . Bir<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>saat \u00f6nce Ohrid\u2019de Pir Hayati baban\u0131n yan\u0131ndayd\u0131m. Buraya nas\u0131l<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>geldi\u011fime ben de \u015fa\u015f\u0131r\u0131yorum.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>T\u00fcrbedar;<strong> \u201cHasan baba seni \u00e7a\u011f\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. Struga\u2019ya gelip te Hasan<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Baba dergah\u0131n\u0131 ziyaret etmemek olur mu\u201d diyor. Ard\u0131ndan ilave<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>ediyor.\u201d Rahmetli Turgut \u00d6zal \u00f6lmeden bir hafta \u00f6nce burada<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>dergahta bizimle birlikte zikir halkas\u0131na kat\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Zikirde nas\u0131l<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>g\u00f6zya\u015f\u0131 d\u00f6kt\u00fc\u011f\u00fcne ben \u015fahidim\u201d <\/strong>diyor.<\/p>\n<p>T\u00fcrbedar \u0130lhan Bey, as\u0131l dergah\u0131n iki y\u00fcz metre ilerde oldu\u011funu<\/p>\n<p>s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. Pir Hasan Baba kendisi \u00c7elebi Camiinin biti\u015fi\u011findeki t\u00fcrbede<\/p>\n<p>yat\u0131yor.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Bu cami bir ara Makadonya\u2019ya gelen bir vahabi gurubu<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>taraf\u0131ndan ele ge\u00e7irilmi\u015f. Buraya yeni bir camii yapma bahanesiyle<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>mevcut camiyi ve t\u00fcrbeleri y\u0131kmaya kalkm\u0131\u015flar.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>\u201c \u0130ki y\u00fcz elli y\u0131ll\u0131k caminin y\u0131k\u0131lmas\u0131n\u0131 engellemek i\u00e7in b\u00fcy\u00fck<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>\u00e7abalar sarfettik. Yaralanmal\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fck kavgalar oldu. Caminin ilave<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>b\u00f6l\u00fcmlerimden bir k\u0131sm\u0131 y\u0131kt\u0131lar. Halk ayakland\u0131 y\u0131k\u0131m\u0131 engelledi.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>T\u00fcrk h\u00fck\u00fcmeti de devreye girince Vahabiler buradan ayr\u0131lmak<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>zorunda kald\u0131lar.\u201d Diyor t\u00fcrbedar\u0131m\u0131z .<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>T\u00fcrbedar, <strong>\u201cDavuto\u011flu ge\u00e7enlerde buraya geldi. Bu caminin ve<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>t\u00fcrbenin T\u0130KA taraf\u0131ndan ba\u015ftan sona yenilenece\u011fini s\u00f6yledi. Biz de<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>s\u0131ram\u0131z\u0131 bekliyoruz\u201d<\/strong> diyor.<\/p>\n<p>Bu bilgilerin ard\u0131ndan t\u00fcrbedar\u0131n a\u00e7t\u0131\u011f\u0131 kap\u0131dan i\u00e7eri giriyorum.<\/p>\n<p>Pir Hasan Baba ve aile efrad\u0131n\u0131 selaml\u0131yorum. O anda i\u00e7imden y\u00fcksek<\/p>\n<p>sesle Ha\u015fr suresinin sonunda<strong> \u201cLa Yestevi Eshab\u00fcnnari ve eshab\u00fcl<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>cenne\u201d<\/strong> ile ba\u015flayan ayetleri okumak geliyor. Okumay\u0131 bitirdi\u011fimde<\/p>\n<p>hem ben, hem de t\u00fcrbedar birlikte g\u00f6zya\u015f\u0131 d\u00f6k\u00fcyoruz.<\/p>\n<p><strong>\u00c7elebi Camiinden ayr\u0131l\u0131p iki y\u00fcz metre ileride bulunan dergaha<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>gidiyoruz. Ge\u00e7ekten de Hasan Baba beni \u00e7a\u011f\u0131rm\u0131\u015f. \u00c7elebi<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>camiine be\u015f dakika sonra gitsem bu ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m manevi atmosferi<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>ya\u015fayamayaca\u011f\u0131m. T\u00fcrbedar Dergah\u0131n kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 a\u00e7\u0131p i\u00e7eri giriyorum<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Buras\u0131 Ohrid\u2019den farkl\u0131. Buras\u0131 m\u00fcstakil bir dergah. \u00c7ok iyi<\/p>\n<p>korunmu\u015f. \u0130\u00e7erisi tertemiz p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l. Her namaz sonras\u0131 k\u0131sa zikirler<\/p>\n<p>oluyormu\u015f. Sabah namaz\u0131 zikri biraz uzun tutuluyormu\u015f. Haftal\u0131k<\/p>\n<p>zikir, Cuma namaz\u0131 sonras\u0131 olduk\u00e7a kalabal\u0131k bir cemaatin kat\u0131l\u0131m\u0131 ile<\/p>\n<p>yap\u0131l\u0131yormu\u015f.<\/p>\n<p>T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den gelen devlet erkan\u0131 bu dergah\u0131 mutlaka ziyaret<\/p>\n<p>ediyormu\u015f. T\u00fcrbedar\u0131n<strong> \u201cPolat Alemdar ve arkada\u015flar\u0131 Makedonya<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>ziyaretleri s\u0131ras\u0131nda buraya da u\u011frad\u0131lar\u201d<\/strong> derken gururlu hali ayr\u0131ca<\/p>\n<p>dikkatimi \u00e7ekiyor.<\/p>\n<p>Bu g\u00fczel manevi atmosfer hi\u00e7 bitmesin istiyorum. Di\u011fer yandan<\/p>\n<p>da gurubumuzun ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi saati geliyor. T\u00fcrbedara veda ederek<\/p>\n<p>otelimize geri d\u00f6n\u00fcyoruz.<\/p>\n<p>Sabah kahvalt\u0131s\u0131ndan sonra Mavrova, Gostivar ve Kalkandelen<\/p>\n<p>\u00fczerinden bizim \u00dcsk\u00fcp\u2019e ula\u015faca\u011f\u0131z.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Gelecek yaz\u0131 Kalkandelen ve Harabati Baba<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-530\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/4771.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"465\" height=\"309\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/4771.jpg 465w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/4771-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Hayati baba dergah\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-525\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"465\" height=\"309\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-2.jpg 465w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-2-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Zeynel Abidin Pa\u015fa Camii Ohri<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-526\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"465\" height=\"309\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-3.jpg 465w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-3-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Ohri Kale i\u00e7i<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-527\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"465\" height=\"309\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-4.jpg 465w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-4-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Vahabilerin y\u0131kmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00c7elebi Camii Struga<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-528\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"465\" height=\"309\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-5.jpg 465w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-5-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Struga Hasan Baba Dergah\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-529\" src=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"465\" height=\"309\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-6.jpg 465w, https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/477-6-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 465px) 100vw, 465px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Pir Hasan Baba ve ailesi<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Yeme\u011fin ard\u0131ndan \u00fc\u00e7 saat serbest zaman\u0131m\u0131z var. Merkez n\u00fcfusu 45 ya da 50 bin civar\u0131nda olan Ohrid, ger\u00e7ekten de b\u00fcy\u00fcleyici bir \u00f6zelli\u011fe sahip . Ne tarafa bakarsan\u0131z bak\u0131n adeta tarih f\u0131\u015fk\u0131r\u0131yor. Klasik Osmanl\u0131 mimarisinin izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yan yap\u0131lardan olu\u015fan Ohrid \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131 \u00e7ok canl\u0131 . Kafilemizdeki bayanlar d\u00fckkanlara dal\u0131p Ohrid incileriyle s\u00fcsl\u00fc vitrinleri incelerken; biz de avc\u0131&hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/524"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=524"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/524\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":531,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/524\/revisions\/531"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=524"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=524"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=524"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}