{"id":553,"date":"2014-05-02T21:50:18","date_gmt":"2014-05-02T21:50:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/?p=553"},"modified":"2017-11-17T21:54:25","modified_gmt":"2017-11-17T21:54:25","slug":"balkanlarda-tarihe-yolculuk-manastir-bitola","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/?p=553","title":{"rendered":"Balkanlarda Tarihe Yolculuk Manast\u0131r (Bitola)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Balkan gezisinde program\u0131m\u0131za Selanik\u2019te konaklama koymamakla ne kadar isabetli bir i\u015f yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 konu\u015fuyoruz. Otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcz Anadolu\u2019daki tek \u015feritli dar kasaba yollar\u0131na benzeyen bir yoldan Makedonya s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na do\u011fru ilerliyor. Bu yolun bir ba\u015fka \u00fclke ile ba\u011flant\u0131 sa\u011flayan bir yol oldu\u011funa inanmak \u00e7ok zor.<\/p>\n

Dolamba\u00e7l\u0131 yollarla k\u00f6ylerin i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7iyoruz. Arada bir Florina yaz\u0131l\u0131 ok\u00a0<\/strong>i\u015faretli levhay\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. Florina bende \u015eair Florina\u2019l\u0131 Naz\u0131m\u2019\u0131 hat\u0131rlat\u0131yor.\u00a0<\/strong>Naz\u0131m, devrindeki \u015fairler taraf\u0131ndan dalgaya al\u0131nan, buna ra\u011fmen al\u0131nganl\u0131k\u00a0<\/strong>g\u00f6stermeden \u0131srarla \u015fiir yazan ve kendini \u015fair olarak lanse eden bir adam.\u00a0<\/strong>Onun do\u011fdu\u011fu kasabay\u0131 da g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f olduk.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Florina k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir kasaba Yunan taraf\u0131ndaki g\u00fcmr\u00fck kap\u0131s\u0131 burada bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

\u00c7ok s\u0131k kullan\u0131lan bir ge\u00e7i\u015f kap\u0131s\u0131na da benzemiyor.<\/p>\n

Kar\u015f\u0131da Makedonya\u2019n\u0131n efsaneler da\u011f\u0131 Pelister zirveleri g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. 2600<\/p>\n

metre y\u00fckseklikteki Pelister zirvesindeki karlar bizleri selaml\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Umulandan \u00e7ok daha k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcrede Yunan g\u00fcmr\u00fc\u011f\u00fcnden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p ayn\u0131 h\u0131zla<\/p>\n

Makedonya topraklar\u0131na giriyoruz. Arabadan bile inmiyoruz.Kaptan \u015fof\u00f6r\u00fcm\u00fcz<\/p>\n

pasaportlar\u0131 toplay\u0131p i\u015flemleri yapt\u0131r\u0131p geri getiriyor.<\/p>\n

\u00c7ocuklu\u011fumuzda koro halinde s\u00f6yledi\u011fimiz(Manast\u0131r\u2019\u0131n ortas\u0131nda var bir<\/strong><\/p>\n

havuz )\u00a0<\/strong>adl\u0131 Rumeli t\u00fcrk\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn kahraman\u0131 Manast\u0131r yirmi kilometre \u00f6temizde.<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131ra planlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zdan iki saat \u00f6nce gelmi\u015fiz. \u0130sabetli de olmu\u015f.<\/p>\n

\u0130lk mola yerimiz Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn e\u011fitim g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Manast\u0131r idadisi. Otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc<\/strong><\/p>\n

kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndaki geni\u015f bir alana park ediyoruz. \u0130dadi T\u0130KA taraf\u0131ndan restore<\/strong><\/p>\n

edilmi\u015f p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l bir bina. Rehberimiz i\u00e7inde Atatat\u00fcrk ile ilgili fazla bir \u015fey<\/strong><\/p>\n

olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0130\u00e7ine girmek istedi\u011fimizde astronomik bir \u00fccret talep ediliyor. Makedonlara<\/p>\n

ise yar\u0131 \u00fccret. \u00dcstelik restorasyonu da T\u00fcrkiye yapm\u0131\u015f. Gurup olarak protesto<\/p>\n

edip i\u00e7eri girmiyoruz. \u0130\u00e7imizde bulunan Ankara\u2019l\u0131 baz\u0131 b\u00fcrokratlar bu durumu<\/p>\n

T\u0130KA\u2019ya iletece\u011fiz diyorlar.<\/p>\n

\u0130dadinin sa\u011f\u0131ndan ilerleyince bir anda kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za otantik yap\u0131s\u0131yla \u00fcnl\u00fc<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131 \u00e7\u0131k\u0131yor. Bu sokaklar\u0131 ve binalar\u0131 \u00e7ok tan\u0131d\u0131k buluyorum. Rehber<\/p>\n

anlat\u0131yor; Elveda Rumeli dizisi bu \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde \u00e7ekildi diyor.<\/p>\n

Biraz ilerleyince dizideki kaymakaml\u0131k binas\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum. Terzi d\u00fckkan\u0131,<\/p>\n

kasap ve dizideki b\u00fct\u00fcn dekorlar yeli yerinde duruyor. \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 olduk\u00e7a b\u00fcy\u00fck .<\/p>\n

Paskalya dolay\u0131s\u0131yla tenha . Bu durumdan pek \u015fikayet\u00e7i de\u011filiz. Normal<\/p>\n

zamanlarda burada ad\u0131m atmak bile zor diyor rehberimiz.<\/p>\n

\u00c7ar\u015f\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde \u00fcnl\u00fc \u015eirok soka\u011f\u0131nda ilerliyoruz. Soka\u011f\u0131n bir ba\u015fka sokakla<\/p>\n

kesi\u015fti\u011fi noktada duruyoruz. Rehberimiz i\u015fte diyor \u015fu g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fcz balkon<\/p>\n

Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn idadide okurken a\u015f\u0131k oldu\u011fu Eleni Karinte\u2019nin balkonu .<\/p>\n

On alt\u0131 on yedi ya\u015flar\u0131ndaki Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fcn do\u011frulu\u011fu hi\u00e7bir zaman<\/p>\n

kan\u0131tlanamam\u0131\u015f efsanele\u015fen a\u015fk\u0131n\u0131n kal\u0131nt\u0131s\u0131 balkonun da resimlerini \u00e7ekiyoruz.<\/p>\n

\u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 geni\u015f bir meydana a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor. Meydan\u0131n sa\u011f taraf\u0131nda Yeni Camii<\/strong><\/p>\n

b\u00fct\u00fcn heybetiyle duruyor. Fanatik Ortodoks Makedonlar, Yeni Caminin bir<\/strong><\/p>\n

kilisenin \u00fczerine in\u015fa edildi\u011fini iddia edip Temel kaz\u0131s\u0131 yapm\u0131\u015flar.Tabi ki bir<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015fey bulamam\u0131\u015flar.T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin tepkisi \u00fczerine kaz\u0131 \u015fu an i\u00e7in durdurulmu\u015f.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Meydan\u0131n sol taraf\u0131nda Osmanl\u0131\u2019dan kalma \u00fcnl\u00fc saat kulesi yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Makedonlar saat kulesinin tepesine bir ha\u00e7 dikmi\u015fler.<\/p>\n

Meydana \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca Manast\u0131r\u0131n ortas\u0131ndaki havuzu g\u00f6remedik ama, \u015fehrin tam<\/p>\n

ortas\u0131ndan akan \u015firin bir dere ya da \u0131rmak denebilecek bir akarsu g\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcze<\/p>\n

\u00e7arp\u0131yor. Bu akarsuyun Dragor \u0131rma\u011f\u0131 oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyorum.<\/p>\n

Bu caminin be\u015f y\u00fcz metre ilerisinde yine ba\u015fka bir caminin kubbesi<\/p>\n

g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. Buras\u0131 \u0130shak \u00c7elebi Camii . Camii restore ediliyor. \u0130\u00e7eri giriyoruz saat<\/p>\n

alt\u0131 olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen yine de yo\u011fun bir \u00e7al\u0131\u015fma var.<\/p>\n

Bu camii 1506-1507 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda Manast\u0131r kad\u0131s\u0131 \u0130shak \u00c7elebi taraf\u0131ndan<\/p>\n

in\u015fa ettirilmi\u015f. Buras\u0131 asl\u0131nda medrese ve hamamlar\u0131 ile birlikte b\u00fcy\u00fck bir<\/p>\n

k\u00fclliye iken bug\u00fcn sadece Camii ayakta kalabilmi\u015f. Cami de olduk\u00e7a harap bir<\/p>\n

durumda.<\/p>\n

Restorasyonu yapan m\u00fcteahhit firmas\u0131n\u0131n sahibi bizzat i\u015fin ba\u015f\u0131nda duruyor.<\/p>\n

Tika Manast\u0131r temsilcisi de orada. Restorasyonun 750 g\u00fcnde tamamlanaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131<\/p>\n

s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. Pek akl\u0131m kesmese de i\u015fin i\u00e7inde T\u0130KA varsa bu i\u015f olur diyorum.<\/p>\n

Gurubumuz bir saatlik serbest zaman al\u0131yor. \u00c7ar\u015f\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7ine da\u011f\u0131l\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015ftu\u011fumuzu ve T\u00fcrkiye\u2019den geldi\u011fimizi \u00f6\u011frenenler bizi durdurup<\/p>\n

konu\u015fmak istiyorlar.<\/p>\n

Herkesin T\u00fcrkiye\u2019de bir akrabas\u0131 var. Bir \u015fekilde T\u00fcrkiye\u2019yi g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015fler.<\/p>\n

\u0130stanbul\u2019dan \u00f6vg\u00fc ile bahsediyorlar.<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r asl\u0131nda Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n en \u00f6nemli merkezlerinden biriydi. \u015eu anda<\/strong><\/p>\n

M\u00fcsl\u00fcman n\u00fcfus y\u00fczde sekiz on civar\u0131nda. M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu Arnavut;<\/strong><\/p>\n

ayr\u0131ca T\u00fcrk; Bo\u015fnak ve \u00c7ingeneler de M\u00fcsl\u00fcman toplumun bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olarak<\/strong><\/p>\n

g\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0130\u015fin ilgin\u00e7 yan\u0131 Makedon k\u00f6kenliler aras\u0131nda da hat\u0131r\u0131 say\u0131l\u0131r miktarda T\u00fcrk\u00e7e<\/p>\n

bilen insanlarla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r\u2019\u0131n daha sonralar\u0131 Makedonya\u2019n\u0131n tamam\u0131nda rastlayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z dini<\/p>\n

semboller sava\u015f\u0131n\u0131n yo\u011fun olarak ya\u015fand\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir yer oldu\u011funu fark ediyoruz.<\/p>\n

M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar \u0130shak \u00c7elebi camii ve Yeni Camii minarelerinden ezan okunaca\u011f\u0131<\/p>\n

g\u00fcnleri sab\u0131rs\u0131zl\u0131kla bekliyorlar.<\/p>\n

Kafilemizde bulunan Bayrampa\u015fa Belediyesi Ramazan Ay\u0131 Bereket Konvoyu<\/p>\n

Makedonya ve Kosova temsilcisi H\u00fcseyin \u015eanl\u0131, Manast\u0131r m\u00fcft\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fcn de<\/p>\n

bizlerle tan\u0131\u015fmak istedi\u011fini ancak Arnavutluk\u2019ta T\u0130KA taraf\u0131ndan onar\u0131lan Kruja<\/p>\n

(Ak\u00e7ahisar)Murat Bey Camiinin a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015f\u0131 i\u00e7in gitti\u011fini yeti\u015febilirse bizlerle tan\u0131\u015fmak<\/p>\n

istedi\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

\u00c7ar\u015f\u0131 gezisini tamamlad\u0131ktan sonra ak\u015fam saat sekizde Manast\u0131r\u2019\u0131n \u00fcnl\u00fc<\/p>\n

restoran\u0131 Kapri\u2019ye gittik. Burada Makedonya mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131n en g\u00fczel lezzetlerini<\/p>\n

tatma f\u0131rsat\u0131m\u0131z oldu. Garsonlar\u0131m\u0131zla T\u00fcrk\u00e7e diyalog kurman\u0131n faydas\u0131n\u0131 en \u00e7ok<\/p>\n

bayanlar g\u00f6rd\u00fc.<\/p>\n

Kullan\u0131lan baharatlardan tutun, yemek tarifine kadar her konuda Makedon<\/p>\n

mutfa\u011f\u0131n\u0131 yak\u0131ndan inceleme imkan\u0131 buldular. Tabaklar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n bol kep\u00e7e misali<\/p>\n

dolu olmas\u0131 ve leziz yemekler bizi mide fesad\u0131 ile kar\u015f\u0131 kar\u015f\u0131ya b\u0131rakt\u0131.<\/p>\n

Yemek sonras\u0131 yine seksen kilometre civar\u0131nda bir yolumuz var.<\/p>\n

Konaklayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131z otel Struga\u2019da Ohrid G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

Yemekten kalk\u0131p otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcze binmek \u00fczere iken gece saat 21.30 s\u0131ralar\u0131<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r M\u00fcft\u00fcs\u00fc Arnavutluk\u2019tan d\u00f6n\u00fcp bizimle bulu\u015fuyor.<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r M\u00fcft\u00fcs\u00fc\u00a0Plumbi Veliu<\/strong>\u00a0otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcze binerek mikrofondan bize<\/p>\n

hitap ediyor. Kendisi Arnavut as\u0131ll\u0131 olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen olduk\u00e7a g\u00fczel T\u00fcrk\u00e7esi<\/p>\n

var. M\u00fcft\u00fcn\u00fcn konu\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 duygulanarak hatta a\u011flayarak dinledik. M\u00fcft\u00fc<\/p>\n

diyordu ki\u201d Biz Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n yadigar\u0131y\u0131z onun torunlar\u0131y\u0131z. Bu topraklarda<\/strong><\/p>\n

biz k\u00f6k sald\u0131k. Uzun seneler birbirimize hasret kald\u0131k. Son senelerde<\/strong><\/p>\n

T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6rd\u00fck. Makedonya devleti T\u00fcrkiye sayesinde bize<\/strong><\/p>\n

iyi davran\u0131yor. Allah Ba\u015fbakan\u0131m\u0131z Erdo\u011fan\u2019dan raz\u0131 olsun. Eski eserlerimiz<\/strong><\/p>\n

onar\u0131l\u0131yor . Diyanet buraya imamlar g\u00f6nderiyor. M\u00fcft\u00fcl\u00fcklerimize destek<\/strong><\/p>\n

olunuyor. Bizleri ne olur unutmay\u0131n. Sizin i\u00e7in belki basit bir \u015fey ama ,<\/strong><\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131na gelip orada y\u00fcr\u00fcmeniz bile bize b\u00fcy\u00fck bir moral veriyor.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bu g\u00fcn ben de sizlerle birlikte Manast\u0131r sokaklar\u0131nda g\u00f6\u011fs\u00fcm\u00fc kabartarak<\/strong><\/p>\n

dola\u015fmay\u0131 \u00e7ok isterdim. Ama yine g\u00fczel hay\u0131rl\u0131 bir i\u015f i\u00e7in Arnavutluktayd\u0131m.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Orada T\u0130KA\u2019n\u0131n onard\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir Camiyi a\u00e7t\u0131k. \u0130n\u015faallah k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre sonra<\/strong><\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r\u2019daki \u0130sa \u00c7elebi Camiini de a\u00e7aca\u011f\u0131z.Sizleri mutlaka o a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131\u015fa<\/strong><\/p>\n

bekliyorum \u201c<\/strong><\/p>\n

M\u00fcft\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn ko<\/strong>nu\u015fmalar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6z ya\u015flar\u0131 i\u00e7inde dinleyip Manast\u0131r\u2019a veda ettik.<\/p>\n

Gece karanl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda Struga yoluna koyulduk.<\/p>\n

Gelecek b\u00f6l\u00fcm. Struga ve Ohrid\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u00a0Pelister Da\u011f\u0131 zirvesinden g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcm<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Atat\u00fcrk’\u00fcn \u00f6\u011frenim g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc Manast\u0131r \u0130dadisi<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Elveda Rumeli Dizisindeki h\u00fck\u00fcmet kona\u011f\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Atat\u00fcrk\u00fcn ilk a\u015fk\u0131 Eleni’nin balkonu<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Tika taraf\u0131ndan restore edilen \u0130shak \u00c7elebi Camii<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Manast\u0131r’\u0131n ortas\u0131nda var bir \u00e7e\u015fme<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Balkan gezisinde program\u0131m\u0131za Selanik\u2019te konaklama koymamakla ne kadar isabetli bir i\u015f yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 konu\u015fuyoruz. Otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcz Anadolu\u2019daki tek \u015feritli dar kasaba yollar\u0131na benzeyen bir yoldan Makedonya s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na do\u011fru ilerliyor. Bu yolun bir ba\u015fka \u00fclke ile ba\u011flant\u0131 sa\u011flayan bir yol oldu\u011funa inanmak \u00e7ok zor. Dolamba\u00e7l\u0131 yollarla k\u00f6ylerin i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7iyoruz. Arada bir Florina yaz\u0131l\u0131 ok\u00a0i\u015faretli levhay\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyoruz. Florina bende…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/553"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=553"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/553\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":560,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/553\/revisions\/560"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=553"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=553"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=553"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}