{"id":561,"date":"2014-05-05T21:54:33","date_gmt":"2014-05-05T21:54:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/?p=561"},"modified":"2017-11-17T22:00:43","modified_gmt":"2017-11-17T22:00:43","slug":"makedonya-ve-balkanlarin-incisi-ohrid-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/?p=561","title":{"rendered":"Makedonya ve Balkanlar\u0131n incisi Ohrid"},"content":{"rendered":"

Manast\u0131r\u2019a gece 21.30\u2019da veda edip yola koyuluyoruz. Karanl\u0131k\u00a0bir gece oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in yolu pek g\u00f6remiyoruz. Anlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z kadar\u0131yla\u00a0ormanlar\u0131n i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7iyoruz. Saat 23.00\u2019te yola \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131z tam 24 saat\u00a0olacak.<\/p>\n

Struga adl\u0131 bir kasabada konaklayaca\u011f\u0131z. Asl\u0131nda Struga ismi bana\u00a0hi\u00e7 yabanc\u0131 de\u011fil. Edebiyat\u00e7\u0131 olmam hasebiyle bu kasabay\u0131 belki de\u00a0k\u0131rk y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinde g\u00f6rmeden sevdim. Buras\u0131 her y\u0131l geleneksel olarak\u00a0yap\u0131lan\u00a0\u201cStruga \u015eiir Ak\u015famlar\u0131\u201d\u00a0<\/strong>ile \u00fcnl\u00fc.<\/p>\n

Her y\u0131l d\u00fcnyan\u0131n de\u011fi\u015fik yerlerinden \u015fairler A\u011fustus ay\u0131 sonunda\u00a0Struga\u2019ya gelirler. 1961 y\u0131l\u0131ndan bu yana yap\u0131lan \u015fiir ak\u015famlar\u0131nda\u00a0\u201cAlt\u0131n \u00c7elenk\u201d \u00f6d\u00fcl\u00fc verilir. 1974 y\u0131l\u0131ndaki \u00f6d\u00fcl\u00fc Faz\u0131l H\u00fcsn\u00fc Da\u011flarca kazanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131.<\/p>\n

\u00dcstad Yavuz B\u00fclent Bakiler\u2019in kaleminden belki de k\u0131rk sene \u00f6nce\u00a0<\/strong>Hisar dergisinde okudu\u011fum seyahat yaz\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum. Struga\u2019da\u00a0<\/strong>Drim nehri \u00fczerindeki k\u00f6pr\u00fcde okunan farkl\u0131 dillerde bile olsa o\u00a0<\/strong>g\u00fczel ahenkli \u015fiirleri hayal ediyorum. Struga ve Ohrid\u2019i g\u00f6rmememe\u00a0<\/strong>ra\u011fmen bana \u00f6yle tan\u0131d\u0131k geliyorlar ki !<\/strong><\/p>\n

Saat 23.30 civar\u0131nda otob\u00fcs\u00fcm\u00fcz Otel Drim \u00f6n\u00fcnde duruyor.\u00a0Hepimiz yorgunluktan \u00f6l\u00fcyoruz. Daha \u00f6nceden listeler otele\u00a0ula\u015ft\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in odalar\u0131m\u0131z haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f. Be\u015f dakika i\u00e7inde\u00a0anahtarlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 al\u0131p odalar\u0131m\u0131za yerle\u015fiyoruz.<\/p>\n

\u0130ster istemez derin bir uykuya dal\u0131yoruz. Paskalya yortusu\u00a0sebebiyle yak\u0131ndaki bir kiliseden yap\u0131lan ve d\u0131\u015far\u0131ya verilen ayin\u00a0sesi bile uyumam\u0131za engel olam\u0131yor. Bir ara sabaha kar\u015f\u0131 ezan sesi\u00a0duydu\u011fumu zannediyorum.<\/p>\n

Bu herhalde bir r\u00fcya diyorum. Hay\u0131r; r\u00fcya de\u011fil bir ger\u00e7ek\u2026\u00a0<\/strong>Otelimizin hemen kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131ndaki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir camiden sabah ezan\u0131\u00a0<\/strong>okunuyor. Ayn\u0131 anda kilise hoparl\u00f6r\u00fc de ayin yay\u0131n\u0131n\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor.\u00a0<\/strong>Struga\u2019da otel odas\u0131nda sabah namaz\u0131 k\u0131lman\u0131n tad\u0131 bamba\u015fka.\u00a0<\/strong>Rabbime binlerce kez \u015f\u00fckrediyorum.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Otelimiz olduk\u00e7a b\u00fcy\u00fck . Eski Yugoslavya d\u00f6neminden kalmas\u0131na\u00a0ra\u011fmen devralan i\u015fletmeci taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7ok g\u00fczel restore edilmi\u015f\u00a0olduk\u00e7a konforlu say\u0131l\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Sabah 08.00\u2019de \u00e7ok din\u00e7 bir \u015fekilde uyan\u0131yoruz. Lobiye inip d\u0131\u015far\u0131\u00a0bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda muhte\u015fem bir manzara; o dillere destan Ohrid g\u00f6l\u00fc\u00a0hemen \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczde. Kahvalt\u0131 \u00f6ncesi g\u00f6l kenar\u0131nda k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir tur\u00a0yap\u0131yoruz. M\u00fckemmel bir kumsal\u0131 var Akdeniz plajlar\u0131n\u0131 aratm\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Otel, Drim nehrinin do\u011fdu\u011fu yere kurulmu\u015f. Drim, Ohri G\u00f6l\u00fcnden\u00a0<\/strong>do\u011fuyor. G\u00f6l\u00fcn \u00f6yle bol suyu var ki; bu sular\u0131 Drim nehri ile\u00a0<\/strong>bo\u015faltmak zorunda kal\u0131yor. Nehrin ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 noktas\u0131nda bal\u0131k\u00a0<\/strong>tutan birka\u00e7 ki\u015fi ile kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yorum. Bir an Makedonya\u2019da oldu\u011fumu\u00a0<\/strong>unutup adamlara T\u00fcrk\u00e7e kolay gelsin rastgele diyorum. Bana T\u00fcrk\u00e7e\u00a0<\/strong>cevap veriyorlar.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Sohbetimiz ilerliyor. Konu\u015ftu\u011fum insanlar T\u00fcrk k\u00f6kenli de\u011fil,\u00a0biri Arnavut, di\u011feri Makedon. Struga\u2019n\u0131n \u00e7evresi ile birlikte 65\u00a0bin civar\u0131nda n\u00fcfusu oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011freniyorum. Halk\u0131n\u0131n y\u00fczde\u00a0yetmi\u015ften fazlas\u0131 M\u00fcsl\u00fcman . Bal\u0131k tutan Arnavut, hepimiz karde\u015f ve\u00a0M\u00fcsl\u00fcman\u0131z diyor. Struga\u2019da halk\u0131n b\u00fcy\u00fck bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131n T\u00fcrk\u00e7e bildi\u011fini\u00a0s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n

Tuttu\u011fu bal\u0131klara bak\u0131yorum. \u201c Benim bal\u0131klar k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck, Ohrid\u00a0g\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcn alabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u00e7ok \u00fcnl\u00fcd\u00fcr mutlaka yemelisiniz \u201c diyor.<\/p>\n

Biraz ilerleyince sazl\u0131klar\u0131n hemen arkas\u0131nda Drim nehrinin\u00a0<\/strong>kayna\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcyorum. Su bir anda kaynayarak nehir yata\u011f\u0131na girip\u00a0<\/strong>harekete ge\u00e7iyor. Manzara m\u00fcthi\u015f; vakit olsa saatlerce seyredilir. Bu\u00a0<\/strong>durumu g\u00f6r\u00fcnce, \u0130zmit\u2019te k\u00f6y\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde yer alan zavall\u0131\u00a0<\/strong>Sapanca G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019n\u00fc hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Arnavut bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131ya soruyorum \u201cBu g\u00f6l\u00fcn suyu i\u00e7ilir mi?\u201d<\/p>\n

Adam \u015fa\u015fk\u0131n \u015fa\u015fk\u0131n y\u00fcz\u00fcme bak\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

\u201c\u0130\u00e7ilir herhalde \u201cdiyor. Ard\u0131ndan ilave ediyor.\u201dBen hi\u00e7 i\u00e7medim.<\/p>\n

Bizim burada o kadar \u00e7ok i\u00e7ilecek su var ki\u201d diyor.<\/p>\n

Gezinin daha sonraki a\u015famalar\u0131nda rehberlerimizin s\u00f6yledi\u011fi \u015fu s\u00f6z\u00a0slogan haline geliyor.<\/p>\n

\u201cBalkanlarda akan her \u00e7e\u015fme ya da p\u0131nar suyu i\u00e7ilir.\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n

Otelimizdeki a\u00e7\u0131k b\u00fcfe kahvalt\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan Balkanlar\u0131n incisi Ohrid\u00a0\u015fehrine hareket ediyoruz. Ohrid asl\u0131nda k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda bulundu\u011fumuz\u00a0g\u00f6l\u00fcn kar\u015f\u0131 taraf\u0131nda. Yakla\u015f\u0131k yirmi kilometre \u00f6tede . Ak\u015fam yine\u00a0Struga\u2019daki otelimize d\u00f6nece\u011fiz.<\/p>\n

Ohrid, G\u00fcney Makedonya\u2019da ad\u0131n\u0131 ald\u0131\u011f\u0131 Ohri g\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcn k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda\u00a0ger\u00e7ekten bir inci. N\u00fcfusu \u00e7evresi ile birlikte 60 bin civar\u0131nda.\u00a0Makedonya\u2019da 2001 y\u0131l\u0131ndan bu yana n\u00fcfus say\u0131m\u0131 yap\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Konu\u015ftu\u011fumuz baz\u0131 M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar bunun bilin\u00e7li bir hareket oldu\u011funu\u00a0s\u00f6yl\u00fcyorlar.<\/p>\n

Makedonya kurulu\u015f s\u0131ras\u0131nda n\u00fcfusun y\u00fczde altm\u0131\u015f\u0131 Hristiyan,\u00a0<\/strong>y\u00fczde k\u0131rk\u0131 da M\u00fcsl\u00fcman diye belirlenmi\u015f. Bilhassa Arnavutlar \u015fu\u00a0<\/strong>anda M\u00fcsl\u00fcman n\u00fcfusun yar\u0131y\u0131 ge\u00e7ti\u011fini iddia ediyorlar.<\/strong><\/p>\n

M\u00fcsl\u00fcmanlar se\u00e7imlerde ittifak yapamad\u0131klar\u0131 i\u00e7in Makedon\u00a0hakimiyeti do\u011fal olarak devam ediyor.<\/p>\n

Ohrid \u015fehri kay\u0131tlara g\u00f6re y\u00fczde seksen Makedon, y\u00fczde yirmi\u00a0farkl\u0131 etniklere mensup M\u00fcsl\u00fcman olarak tan\u0131mlan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Bizim g\u00f6zlemlerimize g\u00f6re burada M\u00fcsl\u00fcman say\u0131s\u0131 \u00e7ok \u00e7ok fazla\u00a0<\/strong>neredeyse yar\u0131 yar\u0131ya diyebiliriz. Arnavut,T\u00fcrk,\u00c7ingene,Torbe\u015f\u00a0<\/strong>(M\u00fcsl\u00fcman Makedonlar) olarak ayr\u0131 ba\u015f \u00e7ektiklerinden \u015fehir\u00a0<\/strong>y\u00f6netiminde etkili olam\u0131yorlar.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u015eehirde T\u00fcrk\u00e7e olduk\u00e7a i\u015flek bir dil. Kiminle konu\u015fsan\u0131z mutlaka\u00a0T\u00fcrk\u00e7e bildi\u011fini g\u00f6r\u00fcyorsunuz.<\/p>\n

Ohri \u015fehir meydan\u0131 buram buram tarih kokuyor. Bin y\u0131l\u0131 a\u015fk\u0131n ya\u015f\u0131yla halen canl\u0131 \u00e7\u0131nar a\u011fac\u0131na s\u0131rt\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 verdi\u011finizde, Sa\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda\u00a0b\u00fct\u00fcn \u015firinli\u011fiyle Zeynel Abidin Pa\u015fa Camii, ayn\u0131 cami ile b\u00fct\u00fcnle\u015fmi\u015f<\/p>\n

Balkanlar\u0131n manevi mimarlar\u0131ndan Pir Mehmet Hayati Baba Derg\u00e2h\u0131\u00a0yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Arkada minaresi olmamas\u0131na ra\u011fmen ibadete a\u00e7\u0131k olan Emin<\/p>\n

Mahmut Pa\u015fa Camii bulunuyor.<\/p>\n

Meydandan b\u00fct\u00fcn heybetiyle Ohri kalesi g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcyor. Tarihi Ohri\u00a0\u00e7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek ge\u00e7iyoruz. Ohri g\u00f6l\u00fcnde bir tekne gezisi yapaca\u011f\u0131z.<\/p>\n

Kafilede bulunan bayanlar. incisi ile \u00fcnl\u00fc d\u00fckkanlara girip kafilede\u00a0gecikmelere sebep oluyorlar.<\/p>\n

Ohri\u2019de iki saatlik serbest zaman\u0131m\u0131z olacak diyerek uyarmak\u00a0zorunda kal\u0131yoruz.<\/p>\n

\u00c7ar\u015f\u0131n\u0131n bitiminde yemye\u015fil bir park bizi kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131yor. Kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zda\u00a0<\/strong>Ohri g\u00f6l\u00fc. Park\u0131n i\u00e7inde yan yana iki heykel dikkatimi \u00e7ekiyor.\u00a0<\/strong>Bunlar Rus\u2019lar\u0131n kulland\u0131\u011f\u0131 Kril alfabesini bulan Kril Karde\u015flerin\u00a0<\/strong>heykeliymi\u015f. Kril Karde\u015fler Ohriliymi\u015f.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u0130skeleden tekneye biniyoruz. G\u00f6lden Ohri \u015fehrinin g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcs\u00fc de\u00a0m\u00fcthi\u015f bir g\u00fczellik arz ediyor. Rehberimiz Ohri g\u00f6l\u00fcn\u00fcn 1979 y\u0131l\u0131nda\u00a0d\u00fcnya k\u00fclt\u00fcr miras\u0131 listesine al\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor. \u0130ki y\u0131l sonra 1981\u00a0y\u0131l\u0131nda Ohri kasabas\u0131 UNESCO taraf\u0131ndan koruma alt\u0131na al\u0131nm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

G\u00f6l\u00fcn kuzey yakas\u0131 Arnavutluk s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde kal\u0131yor. G\u00f6l\u00fcn \u00e7evresi\u00a0y\u00fcksek da\u011flarla \u00e7evrili . Gali\u00e7ya, Pelister ve Mavrova da\u011flar\u0131n\u0131n\u00a0zirvelerinden akan sular g\u00f6le hayat veriyor. G\u00f6l\u00fcn ayr\u0131ca kendi\u00a0kayna\u011f\u0131 da var.<\/p>\n

G\u00f6l deniz seviyesinden 600 metre y\u00fcksekte yer al\u0131yor. Derinli\u011fi\u00a0<\/strong>de olduk\u00e7a fazla . En derin yerinin 160 metre oldu\u011funu duyunca\u00a0<\/strong>\u015fa\u015f\u0131r\u0131yorum.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Teknemiz Ohrid g\u00f6l\u00fcnde bir saate yak\u0131n bizi gezdiriyor. Hava biraz\u00a0bozuyor, buna ra\u011fmen bu g\u00fczel manzaray\u0131 b\u0131rak\u0131p i\u00e7eri giren pek fazla\u00a0insan olmuyor. Bu turun bitmesini istemiyoruz. Di\u011fer taraftan da \u00f6\u011fle\u00a0yeme\u011finde yiyece\u011fimiz Ohrit alabal\u0131\u011f\u0131 bizi bekliyor.<\/p>\n

Turu bitirip g\u00f6le s\u0131f\u0131r bir lokantada yeme\u011fe oturuyoruz. Her zaman\u00a0oldu\u011fu gibi garsonlarla T\u00fcrk\u00e7e anla\u015f\u0131yoruz. M\u00fckemmel bir salata ve\u00a0yan\u0131nda tabak i\u00e7inde \u00fc\u00e7 adet iri alabal\u0131k . Ger\u00e7ekten de Ohrid alabal\u0131\u011f\u0131\u00a0\u00e7ok lezzetliymi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Yemekten sonra \u00fc\u00e7 saat serbest zaman\u0131m\u0131z olacak. \u00dc\u00e7 saat sonra\u00a0bin y\u0131ll\u0131k \u00e7\u0131nar\u0131n yan\u0131nda bulu\u015faca\u011f\u0131z.<\/p>\n

Gelecek Yaz\u0131: Ohrid ve Struga\u2019da Halveti Dergahlar\u0131\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

OHR\u0130D MEYDANINDA 1100 YILLIK \u00c7INAR<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

OHR\u0130D P\u0130R HAYAT\u0130 BABA HALVET\u0130 DERGAHI<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

OHR\u0130D G\u00d6L\u00dcNDEN \u015eEHRE BAKI\u015e<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

P\u0130R HAYAT\u0130 BABA SANDUKASI<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Manast\u0131r\u2019a gece 21.30\u2019da veda edip yola koyuluyoruz. Karanl\u0131k\u00a0bir gece oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in yolu pek g\u00f6remiyoruz. Anlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z kadar\u0131yla\u00a0ormanlar\u0131n i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7iyoruz. Saat 23.00\u2019te yola \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131z tam 24 saat\u00a0olacak. Struga adl\u0131 bir kasabada konaklayaca\u011f\u0131z. Asl\u0131nda Struga ismi bana\u00a0hi\u00e7 yabanc\u0131 de\u011fil. Edebiyat\u00e7\u0131 olmam hasebiyle bu kasabay\u0131 belki de\u00a0k\u0131rk y\u0131l \u00f6ncesinde g\u00f6rmeden sevdim. Buras\u0131 her y\u0131l geleneksel olarak\u00a0yap\u0131lan\u00a0\u201cStruga \u015eiir Ak\u015famlar\u0131\u201d\u00a0ile \u00fcnl\u00fc.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/561"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=561"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/561\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":566,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/561\/revisions\/566"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=561"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=561"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mehdinuzhetcetinbas.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=561"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}